On average, we have over 120,000 strands of hair! That might sound like a lot, but often, the length isn't what we desire. Many with coily or kinky hair struggle to understand why their strands seem to have such a hard time growing. While hair growth is unique to each individual, it's true that our specific hair type significantly impacts its perceived length.
Why does it seem like kinky hair doesn't grow?
It often seems like kinky hair doesn't grow, or that it only gains volume but not length. In reality, this impression is misleading, because, yes, kinky hair does grow, but at a different rate compared to other hair types, such as straight or sleek Asian hair, for example.
The different phases of our hair growth
First of all, it's important to remember that hair is composed of 95% keratin. A hair is divided into two distinct parts: the root, the living part, and the shaft (or length), the dead part. The cuticle is the outermost part of the hair, making it sensitive and absolutely needing protection from external aggressions such as heat, pollution, or all kinds of chemical products. It should be noted that the roots of kinky hair have the particularity of forming S-shapes or spring-like shapes, which distinguish them from other hair types. This notably results in reduced sebum secretion from the scalp, which is partly responsible for hair hydration. This is why, among other reasons, kinky hair is often so dry.
To better understand how hair grows, let's recap the different stages of the hair cycle. The first phase is the anagen phase. It is during this period that your hair grows and forms its length; it can last up to 7 years. Next comes the catagen phase, during which the hair stops growing, and its bulb shrinks. This phase can last approximately 20 days. Finally, the last phase is called the telogen phase. The hair is dead and ready to fall out, waiting for another to take its place.
All hair types follow this same growth cycle. However, the difference in length between individuals is often due to the duration of the first phase (Anagen phase), which can be longer or shorter depending on individuals and their hair type.
The particularity of kinky hair
Kinky hair is fragile and breaks more easily. The cause of this fragility is notably explained by the short duration of its hair growth cycle. Indeed, generally, a hair cycle for straight hair lasts 6 years compared to only 4 years for kinky hair. Furthermore, straight hair grows by approximately 15 cm per year, whereas kinky hair grows by approximately 10 cm per year. Thanks to these figures, one can quickly realize that kinky hair, due to its characteristics, does not develop at the same speed.
On the other hand, their S-shape or spring-like shape hides approximately more than 75% of their actual length. So, kinky hair does grow, but slower than some other hair types, and is also more fragile. This is why it is very important to take care of it to optimize its growth and keep hair vibrant and healthy for as long as possible.
How to properly care for your kinky hair?
Today, there are many cosmetic products to care for your kinky hair, but you can also protect your hair with simple daily gestures to keep it healthy for a long time.
Choosing moisturizing, nourishing, and protective care
It is important to choose shampoos, conditioners, and masks suitable for kinky and dry hair. Generally, it is recommended not to wash your hair more than once a week, and to leave your masks on for about thirty minutes before rinsing them. For perfect hydration, apply the LOC or LCO method.
Incorporate castor, hemp, and grapeseed vegetable oils into your routine, as they are recommended to stimulate hair growth. These oils can be applied directly to your scalp as a massage morning and evening. Certain 100% natural ingredients also promote hair growth, such as onion and lemon, which you can apply, leave on, and then rinse.
It can also be beneficial to opt for a satin pillowcase, as this soft material will not damage your hair during sleep. Indeed, sleeping on a rough fabric can cause breakage and weaken your hair.
Finally, you should avoid, as much as possible, relaxers, flat ironing, and repetitive coloring or bleaching, which damage your hair in the long run. Favor air-drying your hair and use a wide-tooth comb to style it. (Without overdoing it either; brushing your hair during your weekly treatment is more than enough.) Also avoid using a classic brush as this will cause premature shedding; instead, use one adapted for kinky hair.
Prioritizing a healthy and balanced diet
“You are what you eat,” this famous phrase is particularly apt when it comes to the good health of your hair. Indeed, some foods are richer than others in vitamins and minerals. (Essential elements for healthy hair growth.)
Fish, and particularly white fish like cod, is recommended because it contains amino acids such as methionine and cystine, which are present in keratin. Furthermore, foods rich in beta-carotene, such as carrots and sweet potatoes, should be favored because they contain a lot of vitamin A. Next, eating dried fruits (Almonds, walnuts, etc.) provides you with vitamins A, B, and C, as well as numerous minerals and trace elements that boost your hair's growth and tonicity. Moreover, eggs, rich in iron and zinc, are excellent allies for your kinky hair because they strengthen the hair bulb and fight against its aging. Finally, Okra activates hair growth and protects you against dandruff.
Opting for protective hairstyles
One of the most effective tips for preserving kinky hair is to wear protective hairstyles. These are mostly braids. They help protect your ends, preventing breakage from spreading to the rest of your length.
There are a multitude of braids you can do yourself, or have them done by a professional and specialist in kinky hair. Almost all types of braids can be considered a protective hairstyle. However, you must ensure that the roots are not too tight.
Discover some examples of protective hairstyles!
Furthermore, to strengthen your hair, it is important to regularly trim your ends. Every 3 to 4 months, and do not cut more than 1 cm each time.
So, to summarize, kinky hair is a type of hair that needs regular care, like all hair types, to fully enjoy it, because its beauty is unparalleled and unmatched.
